For those who were here last 4th of July, it’s hard to imagine that there were people who didn’t hear about The Big Storm. Thankfully there was no loss of life, although there are plenty of stories about miraculously narrow escapes. And although it didn’t seem minimal to the people along the Gunflint Trail, property damage didn’t amount to enough to make national headlines. So the immediate news coverage of the event was limited to the Midwest and news of ongoing issues raised by the storm have been even more localized. In case you missed it all, here’s a quick recap. (If you were here, just skip a couple paragraphs to get to the important stuff about this summer.)

     Just about the time the parade was lining up for Ely’s Independence Day celebration, Mother Nature was lining up a spectacular display of her own. Powerful straight-line winds, called a derecho (meaning straight as compared to tornado, meaning turning), blew through northeastern Minnesota at speeds up to, and perhaps more than, 100 mph. Trees were uprooted and snapped off in nearly half a million acres, with the most concentrated damage occurring in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Other than pilots who flew over the stricken land that afternoon rescuing the injured, people didn’t comprehend the immensity of the area affected for a day or two. Although the pilots reported what they saw, nearly everyone who flew over the area to survey the damage during the following weeks said something like, ”I’d heard the statistics, but it’s really unbelievable until you see it with your own eyes.”

     Once search and rescue had been completed in the 477,000 acres of blowdown in Superior National Forest, clean-up began. Within four months workers had cleared 551 portages, sometimes with 8-person crews using chainsaws and progressing only a few hundred yards in a day. Some of the cleared portages seemed more like tunnels than trails, with 15’ high walls of downed trees on both sides. 1,520 campsites were restored to a usable condition, although on many there’s no longer anyplace to hang a food pack. Outside the wilderness area, hundreds of miles of trails and roads were cleared and reconstructed.

     How has the storm affected visitor interest in the area? Although the local tourism industry initially feared that a blowndown Boundary Waters would lose its appeal to wilderness paddlers, the numbers suggest that’s not true. Only half the BWCAW was affected, leaving plenty of pristine forests for those who come here for that reason. There were very few cancellations of permits last summer, and reservations for this year were initially higher than usual, tapering off to a normal rate this spring. Reports indicated that many people making reservations hadn’t heard of the storm, others were eager to see the stricken area, and a few preferred locations away from the damage. Of course, other factors affect the number of reservations, and an article in National Geographic naming the BWCAW as one of the places every American should visit in their lifetime may have spurred that early enthusiasm for permits. The main storm-related concern for this summer and several years to come is The Big Fire. To comprehend this situation, it’s helpful to know a little about fire’s historical role in the BW.

     Before European settlement, fires occurred on an average of every 50 to 100 years throughout the BW. Such fires were often small ground fires that cleared the underbrush and dead wood without killing the mature trees. This promoted the germination and growth of pine seedlings by removing competition and shade. These fires also reduced the incidence and scope of large crown fires, the kind that kill the mature trees, by eliminating much of the fuel on the ground. Crown fires occurred from time to time as well, creating large stands of relatively young trees scattered through the BW.

     Since European settlement, fire has been suppressed, allowing the build-up of fuels on the ground and creating large stands of older forests that are more susceptible to wind damage. The enormous blowdown last summer was partially a result of this more vulnerable forest. The storm created a ten-fold increase in wildfire fuel in the areas that were hardest hit. Considering that the fuel level was already high preceding the storm, the BW now has the potential for a gigantic fire. Enormous fires — larger than 100 square miles — have been part of the local ecosystem for centuries, occurring somewhere in the BWCAW on an average of every 28 years before European settlement. The most recent of these fires burned 65,920 acres in 1894. Since that was well over a century ago, we are overdue, statistically speaking. Combine that with the extra fuels, and it seems quite likely that a major fire is in our foreseeable future.

     So how do we prepare for such an event? Perhaps changing our attitude is a good place to start. Although most of us love the big old pine forests and sense there a sanctuary from the rush and roar of modern life, we need to recognize that forests change. Even without human meddling, the BW ecosystem is not a static picture. With a big fire, we may simply witness a major ecological event and learn to appreciate nature’s violent actions as well as its peaceful moods.

     Avoiding property damage and injury to humans is of utmost concern to the many agencies who are planning for The Fire. The exact scenario is uncertain and could range from a few small, easily controlled fires to a wind-whipped, unstoppable inferno of more than half a million acres. Most likely, it will be something between these two extremes. Commendable cooperation among the many agencies involved has resulted in a careful plan to handle whatever situation develops. What are your responsibilities as an Ely visitor or a wilderness paddler? First, be informed. Evacuation plans have been distributed to every potentially affected dwelling in St. Louis, Lake, and Cook Counties. If you need a new copy, call your county commissioner’s office. BWCAW permit holders will receive updated information when they get their permits. Know about the fire restrictions in effect at the time you travel, and be prepared to use a stove instead of a fire. Maps and updates are available at the Visitor’s Center east of Ely. You can call (888) 422-3505 toll-free for information on current fire danger, restrictions, and fire activity in the blowdown area. WELY will broadcast important information throughout the summer, and will be an invaluable resource in an emergency. You can find them at 1450am and 92.1fm with a move to 94.5fm scheduled for sometime this summer. Visit the websites established for fire education: www.fs.fed.us/r9/superior is maintained by the Forest Service and www.ra.dnr.state.mn.us/fire is the DNR’s site.

     Don’t start a wildfire! Here are some alarming statistics: 40% of fires in the BWCAW are started by humans, 80% of fires in Superior National Forest outside the BW are started by humans, 50% of unoccupied campsites checked by Forest Service personnel have live coals in their fire grates. Don’t toss cigarette butts on the ground or out a car window. Douse your campfire thoroughly, then stir the ashes until no white ash can be seen and all the extinguished coals are cool to the touch. Extinguish your fire when you go to bed or when you leave your campsite even for a short time.

     Be informed about what to do if you are near a fire. Both the US Forest Service and Quetico Park have handouts with instructions about how to protect yourself if a fire is nearby. Take these with you. Be alert for fires, but don’t panic. Smoke can travel long distances, and it isn’t uncommon to smell smoke in the BW that originates from a fire in Manitoba. Have a plan for alternate travel routes and know how to get to a big lake at all times.

   No agency that keeps track of who is traveling in the BWCAW at any given time. Whether you’re on a day trip or expedition, let someone know your travel route and where your vehicle will be left. Have a plan to check in with them when you come out. If you are seriously overdue, the sheriff can be notified at (218) 365-4211.

     Remember that there are certain risks inherent in wilderness travel, and the availability of rescue is not assured.

     Once you’re well-educated and have a plan for your safety, enjoy your time in the Northwoods!

     Buying a paddle is a lot like buying a new set of clothes. Although size is important, there is much else to consider before taking home your selection and putting it to use. Do you want something as durable as denim or as elegant as silk? Is function the most important consideration, or are aesthetics more significant? Is this for everyday use or just for special occasions? How much can you afford to spend? Is this a basic item for your wardrobe or gear closet, or is it an accessory?

     Luckily, the choice in paddles is not as huge as the choice in clothing, but the wide range of materials, styles, and prices is enough to boggle the beginner. Before you go shopping for a paddle for northwoods, flatwater canoeing, here are a few things to consider. (There are even more things to consider if you are thinking about whitewater or double bladed paddles, but they aren’t included here.)

     Paddles, like clothing, can be made from natural or synthetic materials in various weights and colors. Paddles can be made of wood, aluminum and molded plastic, or a composite of hi-tech materials including Kevlar®, graphite, and foam. A wood paddle can be carved from a solid piece of wood, often ash because of its strength, cedar because of its lightness, or cherry because of its beauty. Many wood paddles are laminated using a variety of woods of various strengths, colors, and weights. The blade of a wooden paddle may have a fiberglass covering to make it more resistant to scratches and nicks, and the tip may be reinforced with Lexan or some other tough plastic to make it more durable. Your choice of materials will depend on how you plan to use your paddle, and on your budget.

     If you already have a strong opinion on this topic, stick with what you like. But you might at least try the other once in a while just to be sure your tastes haven’t changed, and to prove to your friends who prefer the other style that you have an open mind. If you are new to this, the first thing you should know about using a bent-shaft is that the inside of the curve faces forward. This is the opposite of what you’d do if you were paddling with a large spoon, which is how the uninitiated often think of a bent-shaft. The purpose of this shape is not to scoop water, however. The purpose is to align the blade more vertically in the water so that your energy propels the canoe forward. With a straight paddle the blade begins to push up against the water, thrusting the canoe downward, at the strongest point of your stroke. So a bent-shaft paddle makes more efficient use of your energy. The blade angle of a bent-shaft is rather awkward when using a j-stroke, however, and most adamant straight-shaft users are stern paddlers who steer with a j-stroke.

     Factors other than your height contribute to what length paddle is best for you. Consider that you want most of your blade in the water, and your hands out of the water. If you are in a canoe that is very wide or that rides high in the water, you need a longer paddle to get the blade into the water (or you might consider getting a different canoe). Since you are sitting when you paddle, your height from your seat up is what counts, so long legs don’t mean you need a long paddle. If you kneel for most of your paddling, that’s a different story. One way to size a paddle is to sit, holding the paddle upside down in front of you with the grip touching the seat. You would want the throat of the paddle, where the blade and shaft meet, to be between your chin and the top of your head. A knowledgeable sales clerk will have other methods to help you choose the right size. Before you buy, if possible, paddle your canoe with the size you intend to purchase so you know you have a comfortable fit.

     Like canoes, paddles tend to cost more when they weigh less. The rationale for a light paddle goes like this: If your paddle weighs two ounces less than your friend’s and you paddle at a moderate rate of 40 strokes a minute for six hours that’s 14,400 strokes in a day, or 28,800 ounces less you had to lift, or 1800 pounds — nearly a ton! There are a few little flaws here, especially in the idea that you lift your paddle with every stroke (it’s actually more of a lever action), but it’s true that a light paddle is less work than a heavy one and the difference begins to be noticeable by the average paddler when you have 8 ounces or more difference. But because of the motion of paddling and the leverage that’s used when you paddle well, balance is more important than weight. So to test a paddle, hold it as if you were paddling, and notice if the blade seems overly heavy, like it’s dropping. The balance point ideally should be near where your lower hand holds the paddle.

     The Voyageurs used paddles that were three to five inches wide, very narrow compared to today’s more common eight to nine inch width, but they often paddled twelve to fourteen hours a day. If you are new to paddling and don’t have much upper body strength, or if you are purchasing a paddle for a child, try to choose a narrower blade. You won’t have as strong a stroke, but you won’t tire as quickly and you’ll build the necessary strength more easily than if you overwork your muscles.

     Your top hand controls the angle of your blade in the water and so controls the strength and direction of your stroke. This is a lot of work, and it’s a big help if that hand is holding a comfortable surface that fits well. On hand crafted wood paddles, the grip is shaped slightly differently on each individual paddle, so try several to see which feels the best. Composite paddles have a preformed grip, so check out a couple different brands and models. For aluminum-plastic paddles and some wood paddles, you have a choice of a tee grip or a palm grip. The tee grip may give you more control for steering, and is a good choice for whitewater. The palm grip is generally more comfortable for long days of flatwater paddling. 

     Just as you wouldn’t choose a silk shirt for splitting firewood, so you must think about the way you plan to use a paddle before you make your selection. If you use a paddle to dig a latrine, to clean the ashes out of a fire pit, to break ice at freeze-up, or to pole through rock gardens then the sturdy aluminum-shaft, plastic-blade paddle made by Carlisle and others is your best choice. It is also a fine choice for an extra paddle. Although not the best for paddling, the aluminum-plastic paddle is a multi-purpose tool, nearly indestructible, and usually the least expensive option. And if your good paddle breaks, this “beater” will get you home just fine. If your primary use for this paddle is to take early morning jaunts around your lake in your handmade wood-canvas canoe seeking serenity and the company of a loon family, then you will want to give serious consideration to the finest wood paddles. These are works of art - handcrafted from a careful selection of seasoned wood, carved for perfect balance and a grip that’s as pleasing as a lover’s hand, and finished as flawlessly as a fine piece of furniture. Such a paddle is invariably quiet in the hands of a skilled paddler —allowing you to slip silently through calm water and to steer with a light pressure and turn of the wrist. Like fine wine compared to pretty good wine, it’s best not to try it out unless you can afford it. For wilderness tripping, durability, efficiency, and comfort need to be balanced. The finest paddle may get roughed up more than you’d like, but the indestructible paddles are heavy and slow. Wooden paddles are generally more comfortable to hold, especially if you travel in cold weather. A fiberglassed blade and durable tip are worth the extra expense in a wooden paddle because the realities of wilderness travel include hidden rocks and moments of frustration when you may do something with your paddle that is against your better judgment. Hi-tech, composite paddles can be extremely light yet tough enough for wilderness use. 

     Racing has its own parameters, requiring maximum efficiency. But if you’re a racer, you probably don't need this article to help you choose a paddle. If you’re not a racer, you might be interested to note that the increasing popularity of competitive paddling is partly responsible for giving you a better selection of paddles. The bentshaft paddle was developed to improve racers’ efficiency, and the hi-tech materials were applied to paddle-making to get the lightest possible paddle so that racers’ energy could all go toward moving the boat forward.

     Ely is a terrific place to shop for a paddle. There is probably a wider selection of brands and styles and more knowledgeable sales people than in any other small town in the United States. You may even be able to “test drive” a variety of paddles at area retailers and outfitters. The annual SunSplash event held in Ely the first weekend of May is the perfect time to check out many different canoes, paddles, and accessories plus camping gear. If you’re in the area at the end of summer, you may be able to get a good paddle at a bargain price either at an end-of-season sale or from an outfitter who sells rental equipment after the summer rush. And of course once you’ve made your purchase, the Ely area is a wonderful place to put it to use.       

By Sheila Clouse

     The second time Charles Trezona left Ely surrounded by crowds was after his death in 1931. More than 3000 mourners attended his funeral. The mines closed for the afternoon and business in Ely came to a standstill. So many cars lined up for the funeral procession that the front of the motorcade began leaving the Ely cemetery before the end had a chance to start out from Washington Auditorium. In addition to the Ely citizens who attended the funeral, people came from Tower, Soudan, Virginia, Eveleth, Duluth, and other Range towns. Mr. Trezona’s funeral is known as the largest ever held on the Iron Range. 

     Even today, Charles Trezona is honored in Ely. The multi-use trail around Miner’s Lake was named for him in the early 1990’s. His family home has been restored and is known as a romantic B&B near downtown Ely- The Trezona House. Now Ely’s newest housing development, Trezona Hills, carries his name. What happened between 1904 and 1931 to redeem this man who was so unpopular that he was nearly murdered by the local townspeople? Understanding the background of Ely’s one and only mining strike should answer this question.

     When Mr. Trezona moved to Ely in 1898, he became Captain of the Pioneer mine. In 1900 he was promoted to Superintendent. Then in 1904 there was a shipmasters’ strike on Lake Superior, preventing the mines from shipping their ore to the steel mills in the East. Mr. Pengilly was General Superintendent of Mines, a position that supervised six local mines- Soudan, Chandler, Zenith, Sibley, Savoy, and Pioneer. When the Oliver Mining Company suspended Mr. Pengilly’s pay until the shipmasters’ strike would end, Pengilly resigned and his job was given to Charles Trezona. The first thing the Oliver Mining Company told him to do was lay off some workers to slow down production until the shipmasters’ strike ended. Thus he became a very unpopular man. After a few weeks with all the mines sitting idle, the miners began to reconsider their harsh opinion of the new General Superintendent. A delegation was sent to Duluth where Charles Trezona was in exile. Father Buh and Mayor Vail negotiated a deal with Mr. Trezona and he returned to Ely. The miners began work again and soon found out what kind of superintendent Mr. Trezona really was. Whenever there was a problem between the management and the workers, Mr. Trezona always interceded on behalf of the miners. He truly cared for  the welfare of all miners. If there was a cave-in, Charles Trezona was the first one to start digging. He made sure the local churches were well supplied with wood and coal and cared for the community in many ways.

     When the Vail Hotel caught fire in 1905, Mr. Trezona played a key role in saving the town. The Vail Hotel was a huge wooden four-story frame building. Ely citizens had often commented that if it ever burned, the whole town would go up in flames. So when someone noticed smoke coming from the basement of the hotel at five in the morning of March 17, a general alarm went out. The pump for the city well was operated by a steam boiler, and it was common practice to let the boiler fire go out at night. So at 5 AM, the boiler had to be fired up and burn for a while before enough steam could be raised to run the pump to spray water on the fire. Once the pump was operating the Vail Hotel fire began to come under control. But at 9:30 AM, a few short hours since the pump had begun working, the boiler began to leak and could no longer supply enough steam to run the pump. The fire again had the upper hand. When the roof of the adjoining building caught fire, fears of the whole town burning began to feel like reality.

     At this time Mr. Trezona called the day shift out of the mines to help fight the fire. Some of the miners laid more than a mile of pipeline to pump water from the mine. Others repaired the city’s boilers and restored pump operation. Miners and other citizens hauled water from a creek that flowed through Ely (and has since been diverted through the infrastructure of town). With all these efforts the town of Ely was saved, although the Vail Hotel was a complete loss.

     Mr. Trezona’s popularity grew and he was soon elected to the school board, the city council, and then twice to the position of Mayor. As a member of the city council he helped bring electricity to the common people with the building of the dam at the Fall Lake. As mayor, he was responsible for building the aquaduct from Burntside Lake which still supplies Ely with clean, clear water today. Prior to that, Ely took its water from Shagawa Lake. Imagine that! Thanks, Mr. Trezona, for our great-tasting water!

     As Mayor Trezona was walking through the fire hall one day, he noticed that all the fire trucks had hard tires. The trucks had been purchased with solid rubber tires before inflatable tires were common. Mr. Trezona immediately had the clerk measure the wheels and request bids for inflatable tires. This made for safer, smoother, faster trips to the fires. Through his thoughtfulness, caring, community spirit, and sense of doing the right thing, Charles Trezona became a strong community leader who was loved and respected by all.                        

     Cuteness will be the theme for visitors to Ely’s International Wolf Center this summer. Although this prestigious organization with its mission of international education about the wolf is not likely to tout cuteness as the reason for adding two Arctic wolf pups to its resident pack, you can bet that the word “cute” will be on the lips of every visitor who emerges from the center’s popular live exhibit. Even the staff will undoubtedly let the word slip from time to time. For who can resist a cuddly pup of any species? 

     At this writing, a pregnant Arctic wolf is a few weeks away from delivering a litter of highly anticipated pups. This was planned parenthood to the max, with just the right mates sought to whelp healthy, genetically suitable wolves to be part of the IWC’s captive pack. Birth is expected around mid-May, and then begins the intense but enjoyable process of raising a wild animal to be well socialized with humans. Although many theories exist on the best way to do this, the plan for these pups is to take them from their mother before their eyes open, at around 12 days. They’ll then be bottle fed by surrogate wolf mom, Nancy Gibson, a biologist with extensive experience mothering mammal infants, including one of her own. 

     At about five weeks, the two pups will be moved to their permanent Ely home so that they can develop a comfortable relationship with their new pack and with the many human visitors. It’s important to accomplish this while the pups are still young to minimize any stress to the animals. Human nannies will take over Nancy’s job and help ensure the pups relate well to both people and other wolves. Just how will Lucas, MacKenzie, and Lakota receive their new family members? Nobody knows for sure. But wolves are natural nurturers, and it is common for unrelated adults and offspring to bond. The young wolves will be put in a separate area with visual contact with the adult wolves, and perhaps more importantly to a wolf, olfactory and auditory contact. Their interactions will determine how to proceed. 

     You can look forward to an exciting summer at the IWC. There will be four daily programs featuring the pups, along with the usual presentations of the established pack. Arctic wolves will be the subject of new exhibits and programs, and of course the gray wolf exhibit will remain a major attraction. For a detailed list of programs each week, stop by the IWC and pick up a summer schedule or call 365-HOWL (4695) in Ely or 800-ELY-WOLF toll free. And don’t feel ashamed if you resort to the classic Minnesota phrase, ”Oh, for cute!” You won’t be the only one.     

All the Comforts of Wilderness

     Big red pines, clear water, peaceful campsites, and memorable fishing are part of every Ely summer, and not just for those adventurous enough to head off into the BWCAW or Quetico. Perhaps you’re here for just a short time and want to spend a day away from the hustle of town, or maybe you want to wait for a day when the weather is perfect to enjoy a quiet picnic. Perhaps you have young children and just want to get your feet wet (figuratively speaking) in the realm of canoe camping; or maybe you prefer to use a motorboat and want to find a secluded campsite with good fishing. Maybe the rest of your family loves resort life while you long for a day of northwoods solitude.

     Whatever your situation, there is a back country campsite on a nearby picturesque lake that will give you a taste of canoe country without the need for a wilderness permit or the commitment of your whole vacation. Here are a few suggestions. 

Judging by real estate prices, this is the most popular lake in the Ely area for building a home or seasonal cabin. And no wonder - it has incredibly clear water, pine covered islands loaded with blueberries, and granite shorelines perfect for swimming. It is the site of Sig Olson’s beloved Listening Point and was home to many Ojibway families in the early twentieth century. Although many of the islands and much of the shoreline are privately owned, there is also state and federal forest land along Burntside’s shores —which means you own a piece of it. Six developed campsites are located along the north shore — one part way up the North Arm, three in the narrows between the North Arm and the main part of the lake, and one in each of the two bays west of the North Arm, the furthest west of which is near the portage to Crab Lake. The campsites are back from the parts of the lake that have heavy use, so are generally quiet even on busy holiday weekends. 

    If you have a fascination with islands, you might want to head for Big Lake. The twenty-one mile drive from Ely up the Echo Trail is a scenic prelude to a lake with typical northwoods splendor. Large, low rock outcroppings create islands that remind you of postcard pictures.These rocky spots also provide some of the earliest blueberry picking in good years. Three campsites are situated on the two largest islands. Two of the sites have the extra convenience of log picnic tables. A fourth campsite is located within the BWCAW and requires a permit. Big Lake is noted for good walleye fishing, so on the right day you could have a northwoods summer meal of fish and berries without even leaving your campsite. Two resorts on the north end of the lake can provide bait, canoe, boat or pontoon rental, cold pop, and other conveniences. 

    If trout fishing or a bog paddle interests you, head out the Fernberg Trail east of Ely about fourteen miles to Tofte (rhymes with lofty) Lake. Four campsites provide pleasant places from which to base your fishing activities. On the other side of the Fernberg, toward Ojibway Lake, are two ponds named Glacier Pond 1 and 2. These are a reasonable portaging distance from Tofte’s boat ramp with a light canoe, or they can be reached by FR #557. Tofte Lake is managed for rainbow trout and splake, Glacier Pond 1 for rainbow trout, and Glacier Pond 2 for brook trout. A campsite on Glacier Pond 2 is a short portage from the road and provides a quieter, more remote place to pitch your tent. If you are interested in the flora and fauna of a northwoods bog, paddle to the north end of Tofte, then continue through the bog area to the beaver dam. Along the boggy shore are typical bog plants, including pitcher plants, bog laurel, leatherleaf, labrador tea, sphagnum moss, tamarack trees, and swamp pinks — a delicately beautiful orchid. You may see painted and snapping turtles, beaver, otter, a variety of birds, or even a moose. 

     If you’d prefer a more remote lake with no cabins or resorts along its shore, head down Highway 1 south of Ely about nineteen miles to Forest Road (FR) #377, known locally as the Tomahawk Road. (This road is labeled #173 on some maps.) This is a left turn off the highway onto a wide dirt road. About two miles down this road turn left onto FR#388, go 2.6 miles and take another left turn. In less than a mile you’ll see the August Lake landing on your left. Your choice of the three campsites will give you a wilderness lake setting where a moose sighting is likely and you might even hear howling from the local wolf pack. Anglers can expect to catch walleye and northerns.

     For the slightly more adventurous, an overnight canoe trip or a long day trip on the Island River will reward you with an impressive pictograph site and an infrequently traveled route. An interesting part of this expedition is just getting to the river. FR#377, the same that takes you to August Lake, goes all the way to Forest Center, the site of a lively logging town in the 40s and 50s. About 17 miles from Highway 1, a mile or so before you reach the old Forest Center site, a bridge crosses the Island River. This is your parking spot and put in. From here you can travel up the slow-moving river eight miles to Comfort Lake. On your way you’ll see rock cliffs, beaver lodges, and quite possibly otters or moose. The first campsite is less than a mile from the start. Three sets of rapids have short portages around them. One of the largest and most distinct pictograph sites in the BWCAW is a little more than four miles from your starting point, and two campsites are nearby.

(CORRECTION:  The preceding info about the pictograph site was taken from USFS literature as we hadn't been there before going to press. When we paddled out there the next week, we found it difficult to locate the pictographs. The site is an outstanding rock, but the pictures themselves are not particularly distinct. Otherwise, it is a rewarding trip.) Just past the pictographs the river curves into the BWCAW for more than a mile. The fourth campsite is located along this stretch, but does not require an overnight camping permit. Travel into the BWCAW here requires a day use permit, and that is all that’s needed to spend the night here as well. Day use permits are available at the parking site by the bridge or at the Visitor’s Center in Ely. When you’ve gone as far as you want to go along this route, you can simply turn around return to your parking spot. Although it’s possible to drive to Comfort Lake by taking Highway 1 to Isabella and then heading toward Sawbill Landing, the route is so long that you’d spend more time doing a shuttle than you would paddling back to your car. 

     Although back country campsites don’t have the same restrictions as those within the designated wilderness area, it is still important to use Leave No Trace practices. Clean up your campsite well, use the firegrate for all fires and be sure they are completely out before leaving, never peel bark from birch trees (there’s plenty on the ground if you’re not on a campsite) or cut living trees or vegetation, and learn good hygiene practices that will keep the campsites and lakes healthy and attractive for future campers. These campsites are first come, first serve. Since you’ll be outside the BWCAW, you can camp anyplace, but must be extra diligent about fire. Use a detailed map for navigation and to locate public boat access points and the developed campsites. For Burntside and Big Lakes, Fisher F-9 is a good choice. August Lake is on F-3, but only one campsite is shown. Island River is on F-4, but the pictographs and portages are not shown, so pick up a Forest Service hand-out to go with your map. Check at the US Forest Service Visitor’s Center (east of Ely on 169 in the same building as the International Wolf Center) for more back country sites and updated information.